The variations in the human food palate is remarkable. I perused the 241 reviews on John’s Pizzeria at the Yelp.com website which ranged from 1 to 5 stars. You will find every permutation of good, mediocre, and bad for both service and food. If you don’t agree with any given reviews, you could dismiss them as being written by people who have limited experience with pizza or who have not tasted better. However, a closer examination of the reviewers will reveal many long time NYC pizza aficionados who actually have sampled the wares from iconic places such as DiFara’s, Lombardi’s, Grimaldi’s, Totonno’s, or Nunzio.

One problem with a place like John’s that makes such a large volume of pizza and serves so many people is that it is possible to have genuinely different experiences either with the food or service. Combine an off night for both with high expectations, and the range of reviews become more understandable.

John’s Pizzeria, at 278 Bleecker Street in the West Village, was started in 1929 by John Sasso. Current proprietor Bob Vittoria is a relative of the original owner. John’s is one of the few pizzerias in New York City to use a coal-fired brick oven, introduced to the city by Gennaro Lombardi. Anthracite coal is still shoveled daily from the basement to pizzeria’s oven. A coal oven can reach temperatures in excess of 800 degrees F.
John’s crust is thin and crispy. According to an article in The Villager:

Vittoria attributes the restaurant’s steadfast popularity to the special brick oven that reaches over 800 degrees and crisps the homemade crust to perfection, and the fresh, high-quality meats, produce and cheese. He buys his meat from down the street at Faicco’s Pork Store, open since 1927 at 260 Bleecker St.

You will never get a consensus on a place like this – pizza is one of the most contentious food subjects in New York City. Like sushi, everyone seems to have a favorite or know the best place. The styles and ingredients vary substantially – very cheesy, thinner or thicker crusts, crispy or chewy, oily or dry, ovens used, classic red sauce, white sauce, and non-traditional styles with toppings like pesto.

I had not been to John’s in many, many years. My recollection was that I had found it overrated and somewhat disappointing. Since that time, I have primarily frequented places which serve gourmet or non-traditional styles, such as that of Two Boots or Ray’s on Prince Street. On my recent visit to John’s, however, I found the classic red sauce a refreshing change. Like going back to the roots of pizza …

Note: John’s virtually always has huge lines, although they do more fairly quickly. They do not serve slices (only whole pies) and do not take credit cards.

More Photos – See Here.

In France, I have seen lines to get into small restaurants which look empty. The first time I saw this, I was quite puzzled. A little examination, however, revealed what every seasoned restaurant goer already knows: they were waiting for tables outside. Al fresco dining and the search for pleasant garden space is a quest made by diners around the world. In New York City, we are not blessed with very many pleasant streetside cafe spaces (see Insult to Injury here and this great New York Times article: “Curbside, We’ll Never Have Paris”).

This is the time of year where many relish being outdoors, so if you want a really pleasant al fresco meal insulated from the elements of urban assault, a back garden is the place to find. Often, these places are completely hidden from view – a front sign may or may not be present announcing the garden’s existence. So for those of us who like urban adventure and the process of discovery, this is not the technique best employed. Better to do a bit of research prior to meal time.

In the case of The Waverly Inn and Garden, at 16 Bank Street, the garden has a side entrance visible from Waverly Place. The location is in the heart of prime West Village, one of the most charming and bucolic areas in the entire city of New York. I have written of this neighborhood several times before (see the links below).
Regarding the restaurant itself, I have not eaten there, but I enjoyed reading the reviews, which range from 1 to 5 stars. If you want to have fun, read some of the 74 reviews here at Yelp.com. Apparently, this place is a magnet for the rich and famous, and many of the very negative reviews reflect customer experiences with snobbery, service, and attitude. On August 12, 2008, the New York times wrote an article: “An Insiders’ Clubhouse (Apply at the Door).” One of the owners is Vanity Fair editor Graydon Carter; some have referred to the establishment as “Graydon’s private club.”

The article speaks of the “combination of billionaires, movie stars, intellectuals and fashion designers, with a rock icon or sports legend thrown in” who frequent there. “There are still powerful folk who would rather dine uptown at the Four Seasons, Michael’s or Le Cirque. But for celebrity power deep enough to lure paparazzi night after night, few outposts in New York today rival the Waverly Inn.”

This historic place exudes charm inside and out. For now, it appears it’s the got the buzz and bling 🙂

Related Posts: 121 Charles, Grove Court, Cherry Lane Theater, The Garden at St. Lukes, 17 Grove Street, Paris In New York

If you read the quote from my article on the Veggie Pride Parade, you know you will not find French chef Anthony Bourdain patronizing Whole Earth Bakery in the East Village. However, you will find a vibrant business at this historic shrine for veganism and vegetarianism, in business since 1978. This is the type of place New Yorkers have grown to expect. However, it is hard to imagine a place like this, catering to such a niche clientele, existing anywhere else.

Peter Silvestri and his mother Filomena started the bakery at 70 Spring Street; in 1991, they moved to their current location at 130 St. Marks Place. There are cakes, cookies, and many other confections. In addition, there are soups, salads, and vegetarian pizza with whole grain crust.
To be fair, I believe the degree to which many individuals like the foods there is largely a function of how important dietary concerns are to them. It is tough to compare the baked goods here with fine French or Italian pastries.

Veganism and other variants on vegetarianism have reached mainstream society, but Whole Earth Bakery dates back to the days of late hippiedom and countercultural movements – back to the land and natural living.
The bakery staved off the threat of eviction in 2006 and continues to live on. If you are in the area, drop in and be you own judge 🙂

Note: Filomena Silvestri died in 2006 at the age of 94. She is survived by three children, five grandchildren, and great-grandchildren.

Update: As of December 2012, Whole Earth Bakery is now closed.

Not so long ago, you had to make a pilgrimage to find a fast food restaurant. In 1970, there were no McDonalds in Manhattan. When I first moved here to attend university, a group of us traveled to the Bronx to have the White Castle experience. Eating those little square inexpensive hamburgers (known as sliders – officially Slyders) was the perfect novel activity for a college student. White Castle was an alien experience – something more akin to the suburbs or outer boroughs. Its white porcelain enamel exterior with crenelated roofline resembled a medieval castle (said to be modeled after the Chicago Water Tower.)

The protective romantic attachment that some had surrounding White Castle has all the earmarks of the New York City landmark institution, such as egg creams or Coney Island. Perhaps its length of time in the city (there has been a White Castle in Bayside, Queens, since 1932) and the fact that it predates any other fast food chains here give it a false sense of being a New York original, akin to Nedick’s or Nathan’s. And New Yorker’s are used to taking credit for many firsts, so why not White Castle?

But, in fact, White Castle is a national chain and was started in 1921 in Kansas by partners Walter A. Anderson and cook Billy Ingram. However, the chain has maintained a much lower profile and rate of expansion than other fast food restaurants – to date, it has 380 plus locations nationwide, compared to 13,000 for McDonald’s.
From the New York Times:

Few people seem to realize that White Castle was America’s original fast-food chain: its first outlet opened in 1921, 27 years ahead of McDonald’s. Indeed, White Castle was the key player in turning the hamburger into America’s national meal.

Many years ago, while waiting in line at Corinne Offset at 737 Broadway to pick up a small printing job, my eye caught a sign which expressed a concept unique to me at the time. It said: “Pick two out of three: Fast Good Cheap.”

As I pondered the possible combinations of two, I saw the cleverness of this trinity of attributes. Make something Fast and Good, but then it will not be cheap.
Fast and cheap, but it will not be good. Good and cheap but it will take a long time. In design and engineering, the concept of a triangle built on these three constraints is known as the Project Triangle (the Project Management Triangle uses Scope, Time, and Cost.) In these triangles, the constraints are interrelated, and it is not possible to optimize all three.

With businesses, I do believe it is possible to find all three at a high level, and when you do, these are the places that are exalted. B&H Photo is an example where you can get Good, Fast, and Cheap – that’s why so many love shopping there.

In the world of restaurants, the Zagat Survey of restaurants grades restaurants with four criteria: Food, Decor, Service, and Cost. However, you could grade restaurants using a Project Triangle by ignoring decor. Many rate restaurants this way, especially where a customer is not looking for a true dining experience.

L’Annam at 121 University Place has been in business for 7 years. The owner/manager, Michael Zhao, is from China, the host, John, is from Malaysia, and the cook is Vietnamese. It gets some very mixed reviews. Many of the complaints are due to lack of authenticity. Your eating experience there will be much more enjoyable if you do not expect something like authentic Pho – for that, perhaps you should head elsewhere.

Most agree that this place is Fast and Cheap. How Good the food is is where the disagreements lie. For a place in this price range, I find the atmosphere very roomy and pleasant. I am always treated cordially by host John, with a perpetual smile and whom I have now nicknamed the Happy Man. If you visit, see how it stacks up in the Project Triangle…

Some Fun: Variations have been applied to many human endeavors.
College: Work, Sleep, or Play – Pick two
Men: Handsome, High-Earner, Faithful – Pick two
Bicycles: Strong, Light, Cheap – Pick two

Update: L’Annam has since closed.

In August 2007, I wrote an article, Lunch Limbo, about the perennial dilemma regarding lunch in the city: what to eat. We are spoiled with the plethora of foods here, but in time, we still become bored with the choices: the deli counter, the salad bar, or perhaps the classic New York fall back: a “slice” (of pizza).

Restaurant delivery is an option, but then you have all that planning, ordering by phone, and the waiting. Bringing your own is an intelligent strategy – you get just what you want the way you want it and without paying wildly inflated prices. This however, requires advance planning, preparation, and the schlepp.

Often, nothing seems really satisfying without foraging or the hunt in the concrete jungle. Enter the food cart – a great solution that satisfies these desires rather nicely. However, finding a quality food cart is not easy. There was a cap on vendor licenses instituted in the 1980s; permit holders typically have just held on to them, and most vendors sublease their permits.

In Lunch Limbo, I did mention Calexico’s food cart in the heart of SoHo at the corner of Prince and Wooster Streets. Lines there quickly become extraordinarily long, so my experience with them in 2007 was singular. The cart was opened during the summer of 2006 by three Vendley brothers: Jesse (an ad copywriter), Brian (a graphic designer), and David (a musician). They hail from Calexico, California, where their experience growing up with carne asada inspired the venture. Original plans for a restaurant were derailed by a visit to the Vendy Awards competition, and the Calexico cart was born. In 2008, Calexico won their own Vendy Award.

They have since opened a second cart at the corner of Broome Street and Broadway. Here, they offer an abridged version of the the full menu of the Wooster Street cart. Although the lines at the new location can also get long, they have a very efficient system of collecting orders and giving you a time estimate. I typically take a stroll of some minutes, return, and voila – my food is waiting.

I had been critical of the lines and overall hoopla until I started eating there regularly and found out why they won the Vendy award, not the Trendy award. The food is excellent, and the guys have gone the extra mile or two to make a quality product. Their meat is marinated overnight and their rub had been customized by a professional spice mixing company. That’s what their patrons are waiting for. See their website here.

These photos were taken a short time ago when there was still some snow on the ground. As you can see, frigid weather does not daunt the serious, hungry New Yorker from foraging or the hunt 🙂

Related Posts: Street Cuisine (NY Dosas), Trucks and Things (Van Leeuwen Artisan Ice Cream), Bon Appetit (the Dessert Truck), No Folding Required (Vinny Vincenz Pizza), Soup Kiosk